An air of unease and restlessness filled the DEWI Fashion Knights (DFK) 2024 stage at Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) 2025 as Sejauh Mata Memandang showcased a special collection titled “Republik Sebelah Mata.”
Sejauh Mata Memandang (SMM) collaborated with renowned Indonesian contemporary artist Eko Nugroho and visual designer Felix Tjahyad for this special collection. Through this collection, the trio voiced concerns about social and political issues in Indonesia that are often overlooked. This marks the third time Sejauh Mata Memandang has been chosen as a DEWI Fashion Knights designer and also celebrates SMM’s 10th anniversary.
This collection blends fashion and visual art across fabric, clothing, and installations. It features Eko Nugroho's signature illustrations combined with iconic Sejauh Mata Memandang motifs, including “Ayam,” “Bija,” “Wiji,” and “Onde.”
Chitra Subyakto, Founder and Creative Director of Sejauh Mata Memandang, stated, “‘Republik Sebelah Mata’ is not just a collection of fabrics and garments but also a statement from us to increase awareness of social and environmental issues, and a hope that stakeholders will show more empathy and concern for the public. It is a voice and reminder to create a better Indonesia together.”
“We are thrilled to present a work that is not only new but also carries an important message. Hopefully, this work can translate our collective concerns about the state of our country,” added Chitra.
Eko Nugroho said, “As an artist, I’m delighted to work with SMM to voice shared concerns through this collaboration. In this collection, we blend visual art into a new medium—fashion—which can be worn on various occasions.”
The collection presents 30 looks dominated by black and white with a little touch of red colour. It includes pieces inspired by Indonesian clothing, such as kebaya, baju bodo, and traditional fabrics, interpreted through SMM's design language. Throughout production, SMM consistently applied circularity principles as a priority, using responsible materials and processes with partners across Indonesia. This includes TENCEL with ECO PASSPORT-certified dyes by OEKO-TEX® produced in Tangerang, Banten; cotton hand screen-printed by artisans in Denpasar, Bali; hand-drawn batik by Mugi Batik in Pekalongan, Central Java; stamped batik by artisans in Banyuwangi, East Java; and coffee leather M-Tex made from coffee waste, processed with bacterial aid by Bell Living Lab in Bandung, West Java.
In addition, SMM partnered with several weaving artisans, including jacquard woven textiles from 100% recycled cotton thread by Studio Sejauh’s partner in Solo, Central Java, and white cotton woven from cotton harvested by Sekar Kawung’s farmer partners in Tuban, East Java. These materials were woven by Craft Denim in Pekalongan, Central Java, and dyed naturally with plant-based indigo from Strobilanthes cusia by Shibiru in Temanggung, Central Java.
Alongside these partnerships, more than 50% of the materials used in this collection come from upcycled Sejauh Mata Memandang and Sharon Jap Atelier deadstock fabrics.
Felix Tjahyadi, co-creative director of this special collection, shared, “For this collection, Chitra and I revisited Sejauh Mata Memandang’s archive fabrics from 10 years ago, transforming them into special fashion pieces through processes including garments crafted without cutting fabric to honor traditional textiles, as well as patchwork creations using scrap fabric, rejects, and production leftovers to minimize waste and reduce our carbon footprint.”
This fashion show was supported by various brands and Sejauh Mata Memandang partners, including music by Noni Dju and Efek Rumah Kaca, 3D visuals by Randy Rais, special shoes from Sepatu Compass, rattan accessories from CVP and Urban Quarter, 3D-designed recycled material accessories by Chin Chin by Xue Qin & Peng You, upcycled scrap explorations by Kitabisa Design, accessories from Lievik Atelier, custom accessories by Litany, collectively knitted accessories by Naradiya, Volen Artspace, Agatha Chandra, Merry Apsari, Tarlen Handayani, and Palupi Kinkin, as well as knitted bags from Toja.
